INTRODUCTIONAs much as it sucks to live in too much concrete structures in and around Gangtok, the thought of having to go to anywhere in Sikkim for a short holiday always brings out the best in us!
Arrangements like u know… a little food…booking for rest houses or lodges…fuel….Swiss army knives…..cameras…sleeping bags…woolen socks, torch lights, food, topi(not monkey cap…of course!!) and well..what else……hhmmmm…rolling paper!! And well….any thing that strikes the mind again and again….even when the journey has begun for the first two hrs of the journey ….. I keep wondering what I could have possibly forgotten. Well…that’s me!!
This was my second time traveling to North Sikkim and actually I’m ashamed of having gone there only twice. Even though I live in Sikkim, it would be practically impossible for one to catch the colours, moods and other variations of different part or parts of Sikkim in a single or a few experiences. The last time I went there, it was in late October and winter just about to set in. This time it was the first week of May and it looked different. Personally, if I were to advise anybody going there to go around the third week of April till the third week of May but if there are constraints, go there anytime. I’m sure it’ll look different each time.
TO THE CITY DUDE TRAVELLER….my little advice in appreciating Sikkim and the mountains
As much as I see it,……or in a lot of ways I see it,…….. or try to understand Sikkim, I look at it from basic geography lessons taught in school.
The higher you go, the colder it becomes. Along the variations of heights that you travel, you will notice plant species of various kinds, native to the weather and elevation. U could see Mango trees right below on the foothills hills to cold deserts supporting little plant life in a span of less than 100 kms drawn straight from the Indo Gangetic plains or the Terai. In between the greener hills that one sees….. please do notice how steep it could get and the different things that grow. With this basic observation in mind, I’m sure one would appreciate the beauty of this place more. It is very rich in bio-diversity, I would say one of the most varied in the world (as they say!!!) and it gives us immense pleasure here when tourists understand and appreciate it.
THE JOURNEYS
Before we begin, please don’t forget to notice the various fancy writings written on the top front part of the windscreen of the various Jeep taxis that ply on the roads there. Don’t get lost in translation! Forgive the English Spellings or the logic behind it,…..just feel humored!!
If one intends to travel to North Sikkim, usually one would either choose to do the Lachung- Yumthang circuit or the Thangu- Gurudongmar circuit. Personally, I would recommend both the circuits. In fact, trekking is better if one has the time and the energy because one would get to see and feel the place at its best, away from the sounds of cars and examples of modern civilization.
Places of tourist interests are already posted on the website, so I won’t write about it again.
Climbing from about 5500 feet to above 15000 feet is an experience. After about 9000 feet one would tend to notice the different variations in altitude and the things that come with it……well…. well……it’s a pure delight. I had never had the pleasure of seeing Rhododendron and Primulas bloom and it made my heart melt.
Multiple stops and pit stops of all kinds later, and after crossing Lachen, we reached Thangu, which is about 14000 feet and the place we decided to halt before the drive to Gurudongmar lake. There is this cute little lodge, which we fondly called “AAMLA’S Lodge” (forgive us; we still don’t know the name of the lodge!!) Warm, nice and good vegetarian food and the most amazing view from the toilet after two glasses of warm water and tea in the morning, Yes…… friends, morning toilet ritual never seemed prettier!!
On the after Breakfast drive to Gurudongmar, one can drive as close to Tibet in this corner of the world. Snow capped peaks to the right and just a sky to the straight indicates that one is actually on the Tibetan Plateau and this is what Tibet would be like if one were to keep going straight. No single road but multiple ones and as one desires to drive as one is actually in the highest plateau in the world.
A word of caution though to travellers; beware of Altitude sickness as it is above 15000 feet and a little too hard to breathe and to feel enthusiastic about anything. People falling down with breathlessness are a common sight and the best thing is to descend to lower climbs and altitude and yeah, carry corn/popcorn and ginger, common local remedies for High Altitude sickness.
An hour and a half and there you are…..one of the most beautiful lakes in Sikkim, India and maybe in the world. Snowcapped peaks feeding the lake and the prettiest shade of blue. The picture posted in the site should tell you all.
One thing about being at Gurudongmar that I can never forget for the rest of my life is the sight of a middle aged Tamil Tourist standing alone in the corner, touching the water in the lake and opening his spectacles to wipe off his tears. Tears for what?.....maybe tears of Joy and the thought of feeling the power of nature and truly being humbled. These kinda sights at this altitude are meant to humble us and both the times that I have visited this lake, I’ve felt a profound sense of spirituality and the existence of God and the power of creation.
After descending back to Thangu, where AAMLA’s hot lunch with Bhanglung Curry (Mountain Goat) awaited us. After our humble Thuche’s (thank you-s) we drove to Lachung. Lachung is another town in the other side of North Sikkim. Somewhat like Manali with a small river and valley on both the sides, it is much smaller than Manali though in comparison and culture. Lots of modern hotels and lodges have sprung up lately and sometimes, I cant stop feeling hurt at the amount of hap hazard development Sikkim is seeing with all the non aesthetic design and sense of houses and the new tall cement RCC Structures mushrooming all over Lachung. At least in other parts of Sikkim, there is nobody to stop and enforce a strict code of building houses according to traditional designs and aesthetic sense, being in Lachung feels even sadder when in reality, the Dzumsa( local traditional panchayat) can enforce proper planning and future development keeping the beauty and the purpose of the place in mind.
Anyways, let me assure the traveler to Lachung that these man made structures in no way can spoil the beauty of the mountains there because they are truly high and mighty and sometimes feels like its touching your nose.
Lachung has its share of places to vist from the river banks, local tea shops (butter tea…mind you), the monastery just too many hikes around. The next day took us to the one and only Yumthang valley, driving through the rhododendron sanctuary. Once in Yumthang valley…..do nothing but go down by the river bank…..and just feel the nature….the cold icy winds, the colours all around you, the mighty mountains leading to Tibet on the north. Above Yumthang, one can drive to Yume Samdong, which borders Tibet and also do round treks around the region (for trekking travelogues..please read accounts by Rajesh Verma and Harish Kapadia) If you have nothing else to do and think about, then you could also go spotting a Yeti. There have been accounts of Yetis being spotted about more than a century back! We do strongly believe in its existence and also believe only the blessed will spot one!
…….Well….Well…..You have to go there to see it, feel it and believe it. Even Mani Shankar Aiyer said so the last time he was here!Feel the might of Nature’s creation, Feel God and feel the place that is said to have been blessed by the enlightened one, Guru Padmasambhava. Do come to Sikkim and truly be blessed!!
Posted by:
Sokpa Khodae.
